THE entree, long the undisputed centerpiece of an American restaurant meal, is dead.

O.K., so maybe it's not quite time to write the entree's obituary. But in many major dining cities like New York, San Francisco and Chicago, the main course is under attack.

Although the entree's ills were first diagnosed in the late 1990s, when the rise of small plates kicked off the tapafication of American menus, the attacks have become more serious lately.